Bicycling Minnesota's Rail Trails

By Glenn Oster

Hard core bicycle racer? Wedded to riding highways? Dyed in the wool mountain biker? Enjoy those activities, of course, BUT, you may be overlooking another super bicycling experience - rail trails. More specifically, try the smoothly paved rail trails in the state of Minnesota. They are something special. The state has made and maintains paved trails of some fifteen of its abandoned railways. They are well signed, surrounding areas are mowed, picnic tables dot some trails and all start and finish with ample paved parking areas.

You may recall reading my article last Summer (Riding Rail Trails Summer 2000) about bicycling rail trails in ten of our Western states from Ohio to Idaho. One of the trails that I rode had been described in the Rails to Trails Conservancy’s publication, that of the Paul Bunyan Trail in Minnesota, which extends north 48 miles from Baxter/Brainerd to Hackensack. I bicycled it both directions self contained, camped on the way back and thoroughly enjoyed it. Other riders I met on the trail said that I’d like the Root River Trail even more so. Accordingly, I decided to change my itinerary on the return from Idaho and bicycle that trail. Wonderful idea, but when I reached it, I needed a boat, not a bike. It was four feet under water. However, there was no erasing it from my mind. I resolved then and there to return to Minnesota this year and ride all its longer trails. And that’s what I did.

I had advertised the trip, and Bob Tait, of North Country National Scenic Trail and Butler Outdoor Club notoriety, joined me. We each drove our mini vans and bicycled from van to van so as to avoid both direction rides or riding self contained. (Wimpy, wouldn’t you say.) That involved more driving, but it was convenient. We camped, made some of our meals and had good restaurant meals when we felt that we had done especially well those days. (Sometimes also on days when we pretended to have done well.)

Which trails did I enjoy the most? All of the above. None of them became boring. Some were more difficult because of heat or the wind’s direction that day. When bicycling rail trails you are pedaling all the time with few hills to coast. So, you do get a good physical workout riding them. We had no trouble sleeping at night. As I alluded to, we liked them all; however, there were a few trails that stood out in my mind.

The Harmony/Preston Valley - Root River Trail is my hands down favorite. It starts in high country and drops down and down and down - super runs with lots of curves to make the descent exciting. Later, a turn to the left takes you up a several miles long gradual climb to the community of Fountain. Flush potties, a water fountain and a small town (to access for amenities) are available to you at that trail head. Then the fun begins again as you ride back down the climb you just completed (the only retracing of trails on our trip) and head for the town of Whalan, the van and a cold beer. We completed the trail the following day from Houston to Whalan, mostly flat with one modest climb and descent. (The locals had put the fear of God in our hearts about the severity of that hill. Clearly, they don’t come from Pennsylvania.) That trail, and all the trails to come, had lots of varied vegetation - bright orange butterfly weed, sunflower, black eyed Susan, cow parsnip, tiger lily, yarrow, daisy, evening primrose, mullein, steeplebush, fireweed and a short, thick yellow flower, which parallels some of the trails, that I can’t identify. In one section, they were propagating prairie grass. It was already four feet tall and will grow much higher as the Summer progresses. Regarding wildlife, we saw the usual squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits and deer on the trails. We also saw a gray fox, and, ten feet ahead of me, a little mink crossed the trail with breakfast in its mouth. The potential existed for seeing black bears, moose, coyotes, wolves, badgers and lots of other critters. At one point on the Root River Trail we saw hundreds of colorful butterflies, black with orange stripes across their wings, the latter tipped in white. Never saw so many in one area - was difficult to avoid running over them.

The next trail of special interest to me is the Wobegon Trail. I’ve never become hooked on Garrison Keillor’s Prairie Home Companion radio series, but here is its birthplace. He spent considerable time in the town of Freeport. We stopped there for coffee and a large piece of sour cream/raisin pie (first time ever - and was it good!) in Charlie’s Cafe and learned from its owner that this was the Chatterbox Cafe of which Keillor wrote. He used to go to Charlie’s after church each Sunday. At those times, the local women were assembled, always animated, each trying to outtalk the others and creating quite a din. Hence, Chatterbox Cafe. The other town of notoriety on this trail is its western starting point, Sauk Center. Author, Sinclair Lewis, lived there, and it is the community about which he wrote the novel, Main Street, that became a literary must for students years ago. I remember being "encouraged" to read it in high school. Predictably, the main street in town is named, "The Original Mainstreet."

The third trail that stood out in my mind is the Itaska - Heartland Trail combination. We started riding at the headwaters of the Mississippi River in Itaska State Park and followed its paved trail through woods with numerous ups and downs for seven miles - just beautiful, deep shade with the sun streaking through the trees at times, sparkling lakes - magnificent! We then rode highways for 20 or so miles to the Heartland Trail and followed it eastward to the town of Walker. We had wanted to stay at the HI/AYH Mississippi Headwaters Hostel in the park, but it was full. Then, fortune smiled on us. Out of the blue, a bicyclist caught up to us and was interested in what we were doing. His name is Brett Bjerkness, and his folks live about 15 miles from there. He invited us to stay for the night, and we took him up on his offer. He was training to take part in an Ironman triathlon at Lake Placid, New York. Needless to say, he left us in the dust when he started to ride. This story would go on much too long if I were to describe the scenic setting of his parents’ Summer house on a bright blue lake, all equipped with a private dock and speedboat. His mother, Joann, was most gracious and generous to us - delicious rhubarb pie topped with whipped cream plus coffee in the evening and a bowl of fresh strawberries, blueberries and red raspberries in the morning - so unexpected, but so good! Coincidentally, I know her husband, Odell, who was away at the time. For a brief period, he and I were simultaneously on the Board of the North Country Trail Association. How do chance meetings like that work out so well. For me, that visit was the highlight of the trip.

Bob and I exceeded our bicycling expectations and had an extra day to enjoy on our way back to Pennsylvania. We elected to cross at Sioux Saint-Marie and return via Canada. Along the way, we detoured to see Copper Falls in Wisconsin and hiked the mile+ trail around Copper Falls State Park. The scenery there is well worth going out of your way for. There are several other waterfalls to see besides Copper Falls, and the views down into the canyons are rewarding, indeed. I took too many pictures. We also visited Potato River Falls, farther north, but this one, although remarkable, was far below us; we viewed it from a distant overlook. Along the way we passed access points for Michigan’s Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which traces a segment of Lake Superior’s south shoreline; however, we had both walked the North Country National Scenic Trail there and decided to move on eastward until dusk.

The next day we drove to Tahquamenon Falls State Park and visited both the Upper and Lower Falls. I never tire of seeing these amazing waterfalls. The tannic acid in the water gives it an amber hue that radiates as the water tumbles down in bright sunlight. The morning was chilly, and the park’s notorious mosquitoes hadn’t come to life yet - had put on my silly looking bug suit for nothing. I was amused at a sweatshirt in the gift shop window with big mosquitoes appliqued and the words, "Tahquamenon Falls Blood Donor"prominently displayed.

Our trip ended with an unplanned extra. We bicycled the 35 mile trail alongside the Niagara River from Fort Erie to Fort George. It is scenic in sections, travels streets in other sections, passes by impressive mansions and takes you by the famous Niagara Falls. Getting through the crowd of sightseers was daunting, however. What else should we have expected on a hot Saturday in July. It would be better to do this trail mid week before school is out for the Summer or after the little rascals are back in their class rooms.

Our trip took place July 2 through 14, 2001 and, as mentioned, went better than planned. The sky was clear, the days were sunny and hot (rained one morning) and the rail trails were as great as I hoped, perhaps even better. Information about the trails is easily obtained by writing to MN Bike Trails & Rides, 108 Main Street, PO Box 28, Nevis, MN 56467 or phoning (218) 652-3062. Try these trails if you dare; you may become hooked as I did.

Copyright ©  2001 Glenn Oster